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The toxic truth about acrylic nails

As acrylic nails continue to rise in popularity, many are asking: What risks do acrylic nails pose to our health and the environment?

A pair of hands applying pink nail polish.

The toxic truth about acrylic nails

As acrylic nails continue to rise in popularity, many are asking: What risks do acrylic nails pose to our health and the environment?

A pair of hands applying pink nail polish.

What are acrylics made of? 

Acrylic nails are created from a man-made chemical called PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate). PMMA is formed by combining two basic chemicals called methyl methacrylate (MMA), and methacrylic acid. In general, PMMA itself is usually safe. However, even after the chemical reaction is done, trace levels of MMA can still be left behind in the final PMMA product and may sometimes cause allergic skin reactions, especially in people with sensitive skin. In addition, PMMA is often used with other chemicals. For example, we can find volatile organic solvents like toluene, which allows the nails to dry. Most of these are associated with respiratory issues and even neurological damage has been found with sufficiently high exposure. Another example is phthalates, a plasticizer that makes the PMMA plastics flexible and durable. These chemicals have been linked to diabetes, obesity and reproductive issues, according to Li Li, associate professor of public health and an expert in exposure and health sciences. 

How do acrylic nails affect our environment? 

Microplastics form as the acrylic degrades from everyday wear and tear, like abrasion from filing or friction during use. When acrylic nails end up in landfills they gradually deteriorate. As the weather gets hot and cold, the plastic expands and contrasts repeatedly. Once the plastic loses its original form, it also loses its structural chemical makeup, causing the acrylic nail to release microplastics into the environment.

When it rains, the microplastics are washed into groundwater and then flow into lakes and rivers affecting fish and other species.

How does this affect health?  

Li’s main concern about acrylic nails is pigmentation, or the color in polish. The color includes chemicals such as azo compounds that help give the polish color. While many azo compounds are considered safe and are approved for cosmetic use, some azo compounds can break down into potentially harmful aromatic amines, which can be toxic or carcinogenic. However, when looking at a specific nail product, people often have no way of knowing whether the azo compounds in it are safe or not. 

Since nail polish must be kept as a liquid, volatile organic substances are added to keep it so. These chemicals are linked to health problems including cancer. There is also the risk of breathing in these harmful chemicals into the lungs.  

Are these chemicals legal in the United States? 

The (EPA) oversees the banning of toxic chemicals in America. Li sits on the Science Advisory Committee on Chemicals for the EPA. His biggest concern is that many of these chemicals are not just single substances and are instead part of big chemical families. When the regulatory agencies ban toxic chemicals they often take a chemical-by-chemical approach that only bans one specific version of the chemical family at a time. This means that once a specific chemical is banned, manufacturers will make new chemicals that are structurally and functionally similar to the banned chemical by adding or changing some functional groups. The new versions of these banned chemicals are not necessarily safer or healthier, they just haven’t been tested or regulated yet.

Can researchers directly link microplastics to bad health outcomes?

People are exposed to or consume microplastics from several sources, ranging from fast food burger packaging, bottled water and even a variety of beauty products. Li emphasized that it is currently not possible to link microplastics present in our body to individual specific sources. For example, it’s not possible to determine if microplastics in a human came from their acrylic nails or their lunch.  

How long have scientists conducted research on microplastics?

Microplastic research began about 15 years ago, but it has been proven that once microplastics get into the human body they are difficult to get rid of, and thus last in the human body for a long time. Li said the goal is to minimize usage now because by the time researchers fully understanding the lasting impacts of microplastics it will be too late. The damage done to the environment, humans, animals and plant species is irreversible.  

Do UV nail lamps, which are used to quickly dry nail polish, affect our health?  

According to Li, since UV radiation is not a chemical but is a physical wave, once the light is turned off the exposure stops. In general, exposure to UV radiation is associated with premature skin aging and an increased risk of skin cancer. The level of risk depends on the duration of exposure. If the exposure is just a few minutes, the likelihood of health effects is extremely low. Li notes that it’s not likely the UV lamps heating the nails will create microplastics. The heat involved in curing the polish and the time of curing the polish are not sufficient to break down materials in a way that would generate microplastics. 

"Humans are engaging in risky behavior every day, from driving cars to swimming in the ocean. Manufacturers need to limit the use of potentially harmful chemical substances in plastics, as well as the consumption of plastic materials, such as acrylic nails," Li said. "And, if one cannot avoid certain activities, then opt for higher-quality products, including products that use a smaller percentage of the harsh chemicals." 


Â鶹ӳ»­ the professor:  

Li Li is an associate professor of Environment Health, at the Â鶹ӳ»­. He studies health risks associated with human exposure to human-made chemicals (such as pesticides, disinfectants, flame retardants and surfactants) and materials (such as nanomaterials and microplastics). His research focuses on how these chemicals and materials accumulate, travel and transform within the nexus of human socioeconomic systems, the environment and humans, as well as the adverse environmental and health effects these substances can cause.

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